Accenta 8

[Guest GazSuttonUK]

I bought a new battery and did every thing that you said(Dave) and the KeyPad now works(Arms and Disarms) But when I reconnect the sounder in the Bellbox(I had to disconnect this the other night to stop the sounder from anoying the neighbours) I cannot cancel the sounder with the keypad.

So everything seems to be working OK but when the sounder is wired in I cannot cancel with the KeyPad.

Any ideas?

Many thanks,

Gary.

[Guest oldtimer]

It lokks like you are chasing your tail on this.

First of all disconnect the sounder inside the external box

Second then disconnect the sounder cables on terminals T & A (remember to take a note of the cable colours)

Third replace the cover of your panel and reset the tamper fault.

Fourth now check out your alarm and if is working ok have a cup of tea before you tackle the sounder.

Your main problem is that the outside sounder has a built in battery back up and when you power down your panel and remove the battery the sounder activates

independantly. This is why you are confused.

When you re enstate the sounder it will activate independantly. Ignore this

1st open the panel and silence the panel sounder

2nd remove the link across T&A and connect the cables back in.

3rd connect your sounder in the external box(sounder will activate)

4th replace external box cover (sounder should go off)

5th return to the panel replace the cover and reset the tamper fault.

6th set your system and then check it for activation

7th Reset panel

8th complete

[Guest GazSuttonUK]

Thanks Oldtimer.

I will try that but will have to wait until a weekday to save annoying the neighbours on a Sunday.

Many thanks for your time,

Gary.

[Guest Putbinoot]

hope you don't mind me jumping into this thread but i have the same problem with an accenta 6, I disconnected power to it as I was fitting new extracter fans in my bathroom and the alarm is feed from the same lighting circuit, is that the norm or should it be feed from it's own breaker on the consumer unit. I was a spark for 12 years but never fitted an alarm in that time.

Oldtimer

can your system work without me disconnecting the bell outside as i can't get up to it.

my panel has the following

zone zone zone zone zone zone P A TAMP LS Strobe T A BELL 13v set Bat

i assume zone = detection circuit

PA = personnal attack(this is shorted)

Tamp= complete circuit round all detectors

L S = local sounder (empty)

strobe= strobe in outside box(flashing at present)

T A = no idea, is it voltage to bell on alarm

Bell= is this power to battery in outside bell

13v= supply to all detectors

set= no idea(empty)

Bat = 13v to battery in panel

power to panel was only turned of for a couple of times and only for seconds as board was not marked so I was just turning of breakers to find the right one.

for any info

[Guest oldtimer]

With regards to your query.

Lets start with the mains supply to the panel the last circuit you should connect it to is a lighting circuit. This is because of the interferance that can be present when lights are switched on or off. The best thing to do is to wire it from the mains fuseboard.

If there is a spare circuit then connect it via a 5/6 amp circuit breaker. Why ?

Because the majority of alarm panels are wired in 1.0mm T&E. If the fuseboard is to far away then connect the panel via a fused spur from a power / socket. The fuse should be a 2 or 3 ampin the fused spur.

For anybody else reading this who are not electricaly minded please be aware that when you are trying to trace the power supply to an alarm panel be advised on some of the older systems , some "alarm engineers"

who were pariniod about their systems being tampered with would wire a 1.5mm T&E cable to the live side of the fuseboard. If you switch off all the circuit breakers and the mains switch and the mains indication light on the panel is still iluminated

get an electrician immediatly to make the circuit safe. I have had a few of these systems in the past so watch out.

Back to the enquiry.

You do not have to disconnect the outside sounder but I would advise that you replace the battery if the system is more than 5 years old. The Accenta comes in 2 sizes so if you have a mini panel then you will need a 2.1 amphour 12volt battery

if it is the polycarb box ie 230x290x80 then you should get a 2.8 or a 7.0 Ah battery.

Replace the battery and leave connected for 1 day before you reconfigure the mains. If you do this then you will have about 8 -12 hours with the mains off.

If not then you will have problems with the outside sounder activating independantly after 1 hour.

also Zone = detection zone NC

PA - Personal attack button

TA = tamper circuit

LS = loud speaker (exit /entry)

Hope this helps

[Guest GazSuttonUK]

Thanks 'Oldtimer',

Did everything you said and now my system works perfectly.

The System is a Accenta 8 panel, Artitech AS294 Bellbox and Guardall Apollo 15 sensors, 2 x Accenta remote keypads.

Sorry but another question I would like to fit a couple of Fire detectors into this system.

Will there be any problems and can you reccommed any make of dectectors?

Thanks for your help,

Gary.

[Guest oldtimer]

My advise is do not connect smoke detectors to your alarm panel.

Why ?

It is one thing upsetting your neighbours when the alarm goes off but last thing you need to do is to get them to jump out theirs chairs when you burn your toast.

Although you can purchase 12v dc smoke sensors I just do not subscribe to useing

this extra function that is fitted to an alarm panel.

So what have I got fitted to my house. I have 2 interconnected 240 volt smoke sensors. I fitted them 12 years ago and although I live in a 50 year old house

These are wired via a 3 amp fused (not switched) spur via 1.0mm T&E and interconnected by 1.0mm 3 core & earth.

Yes I know someone will reply there is no problem use an alarm panel to signal a fire but I feel it is best to keep these 2 systems seperate.

Ps the new 240 volt sensors also have a battery back up function.

[Guest shutty]

Accenta 8

I have much the same problem as this, The central heating boiler needed to be re- ignited, but you have to turn off the power.

The alarm sounded when power switch off, then when I turned the power back on the alarm stopped but the panel buttons were alight but no power or tamper light.

I have taken the front off the control panel thinking it would activate the alarm through tamper , but nothing.

Do I have to remove the battery, power down control box and then power up control box without battery conected?

Also will my code still work?

Do I have to reset anything in the control box?

If anyone could help I would be most grateful.

Regards

John

[paul fae kings]

First thing i would do was replace the battery.When it went off was it all sounders or external only?

[paul fae kings]

actually reading back the way if you follow the advice from the lads posted previously that will get you there(one of these days i might start reading the posts from 1 onwards)