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How Do You Guys Wire 240v To External Cameras


Alexg

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Posted
Two meters of flex maximum?

Used to be, now it's a 'reasonable distance'. The other end of the building is not classed as a reasonable distance and most people still go on a guide of 2m (I think there's something about it in the NICEIC tech manual or in a bulletin that mentions this).

lurch, can you tell me how doing it my way is a departure from the regs? How many other types of equipment have local isolation? external lights don't, you would have to go back to the DB to isolate them. I am not being ungrateful here, I appreciate the replies, but please guys, get all the information before you post your reply.

I'm a qualified spark, that

Posted
Say you've got an instalation where there are 4 external cameras, 240v at each camera head.
Do you run a seperate feed to each housing and then run each back to a central point and have a spur for each camera in a bank together so each camera can be isolated independed of the other, or would you put just one spur in as one point of isolation and then loop in at each camera? is the former a bit eccesive?

Why do you guys always jump to conclusions, it drives me mad "I would get someone else to do it if I were you" you just assumed I wasn't able to do it. If I here part p mentioned again imma shoot somebody lurch, can you tell me how doing it my way is a departure from the regs? How many other types of equipment have local isolation? external lights don't, you would have to go back to the DB to isolate them. I am not being ungrateful here, I appreciate the replies, but please guys, get all the information before you post your reply.

I'm a qualified spark, that

Posted
Say you've got an instalation where there are 4 external cameras, 240v at each camera head.

Do you run a seperate feed to each housing and then run each back to a central point and have a spur for each camera in a bank together so each camera can be isolated independed of the other, or would you put just one spur in as one point of isolation and then loop in at each camera? is the former a bit eccesive?

I would never run mains to a camera housing on my installations now, low voltage housings are available at the same prices as mains housings so for me anyway it eliminates the need.

I would run 4 core .75m flex to every camera location, 1 pair for the heater and 1 pair for the camera.

Posted

Thanks for the replies.

The property is a town building.

It seemes then that local isolation next to the camera is critical so I will do this.

My plan is then, a run in 1.5mm FP200 (for neatness and to help with shielding so the coax can run through the same hole?) from a 10A breaker in the main DB looping round to an IP65 box situated next to each camera, inside the box will be a DP switched spur unit with a 3A fuse, I will do like "Alarm gard" suggests, fit the box next to it but run in through the back so nothing is visable.

Sorry if I did not make it clear in my original post what history I have.

Guest Peter James
Posted

Nobody's mentioned this but to avoid mains hum on the picture keep all the spurs on the same phase.

Pete

Posted
Of course you will be aware of the Phasing and earthing requirements that need to be taken into account when installing a CCTV system and separation of cabling.
Nobody's mentioned this but to avoid mains hum on the picture keep all the spurs on the same phase.

Who you calling Nobody :bruce_h4h:

Posted

Are there some people still fitting 230v cameras and housings, WHY !.

12v/24v is the only way to go.

Im a nervous wreck if Im up ladders dealing with a mains fed housing, and Im a qualified sparky.

Top tip: if you ever catch fire, try to avoid seeing yourself in the mirror, because i bet thats what REALLY throws you into a panic and dont forget the one thing you cant recycle is wasted time.

Posted

I want to use 240v as I may fit a light next to the housing.

"Im a nervous wreck if Im up ladders dealing with a mains fed housing, and Im a qualified sparky" Not a very good one then ;)

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