Gardtec 580 Battery Low

[Guest pb.brown]

Hi, every time we have a power cut my alarm goes off!!! We get an error message of Fb which I presume indicates that the battery needs replacing. Any chance of some pointers, ie can I as a user remove the cover without the need for engineer codes and if so where do I get a new battery from.

Pete B

[whistle]

Trust me for what its worth get an engineer out and he will service and replace the battery.

Well worth it.

[arfur mo]

hi pete, its very rare on Gardtec systems for the charging circuit will be damaged, even a totally flat battery - never happened in my experience in some 20 years in both using Gardtec Panels or attending 'fitted by others' with totally shorted plates.

even if the supply regulator was damaged and the board has to be replaced, the system would still need a new battery, so it is not a wasted expense for the owner.

READERS.

this is the DIY section of the forum and seeks to serve with the best intentions people who need 'leading by the hand' or advice.

disclaimers

none of the forum members know of an enquireres personal capability and/or competance when dealing with usually safe but potentially lethal equipment, or the competance of the original installer. we can and do not advise you to open the case under any circumstances - never ever with the power applied.

any person reading these forums must be aware of potentially lethal voltages present within the control cabinet, and very high voltages in the strobe section of the sirens.

you must always ensure the removal of the 240 volts supply by removing the fuse prior to openning any lid - if you have no experience of electrics or electronics always seek assistance from someone competant - it could save you from serious injury or perhaps your life - is that worth it for the sake of saving a few quid?.

if you decide to ignore the above and proceed further, it is entirely at your own peril and risk!!!

if the battery is that 'flat' the external siren may sound (if wired as SAB and the battery is connected) when the power is disconnected - do not panic here and do not do this at an unreasonable time of day either!.

having openned the lid, replacement of the battery is a simple matter of unplugging the old and fitting the new one (source Maplins Electronics or EBay).

refit the lid making sure you do not trap any wires then type in your user code to cancel the 'tamper' sirens, finally restore the mains power to the controls. setting the system then unsetting will clear the display.

after at least 48 hours open a convenient PIR nearest to the controls (this should cause a tamper so enter your user code) and test the voltage at the 12 volt supply terminals with a meter. it should not exceed 13.8 volts. again remove the mains power from the control panel and re-check the voltage at the pir after 30 minutes it should not fall bellow 11.8 volts.

if these readings are ouside the values shown then you must engage trained assistance.

competant well equiped intruder service engineers will cary a specialised battery test meter with them, so negating the 48 and 1/2 hour soak hour test.

[Paul P]

hi pete, its very rare on Gardtec systems for the charging circuit will be damaged, even a totally flat battery - never happened in my experience in some 20 years in both using Gardtec Panels or attending 'fitted by others' with totally shorted plates.

even if the supply regulator was damaged and the board has to be replaced, the system would still need a new battery, so it is not a wasted expense for the owner.

READERS.

this is the DIY section of the forum and seeks to serve with the best intentions people who need 'leading by the hand' or advice.

disclaimers

none of the forum members know of an enquireres personal capability and/or competance when dealing with usually safe but potentially lethal equipment, or the competance of the original installer. we can and do not advise you to open the case under any circumstances - never ever with the power applied.

any person reading these forums must be aware of potentially lethal voltages present within the control cabinet, and very high voltages in the strobe section of the sirens.

you must always ensure the removal of the 240 volts supply by removing the fuse prior to openning any lid - if you have no experience of electrics or electronics always seek assistance from someone competant - it could save you from serious injury or perhaps your life - is that worth it for the sake of saving a few quid?.

if you decide to ignore the above and proceed further, it is entirely at your own peril and risk!!!

if the battery is that 'flat' the external siren may sound (if wired as SAB and the battery is connected) when the power is disconnected - do not panic here and do not do this at an unreasonable time of day either!.

having openned the lid, replacement of the battery is a simple matter of unplugging the old and fitting the new one (source Maplins Electronics or EBay).

refit the lid making sure you do not trap any wires then type in your user code to cancel the 'tamper' sirens, finally restore the mains power to the controls. setting the system then unsetting will clear the display.

after at least 48 hours open a convenient PIR nearest to the controls (this should cause a tamper so enter your user code) and test the voltage at the 12 volt supply terminals with a meter. it should not exceed 13.8 volts. again remove the mains power from the control panel and re-check the voltage at the pir after 30 minutes it should not fall bellow 11.8 volts.

if these readings are ouside the values shown then you must engage trained assistance.

competant well equiped intruder service engineers will cary a specialised battery test meter with them, so negating the 48 and 1/2 hour soak hour test.

Wow well said

[arfur mo]

thanks paul,

i'm gonna try polotics next!!

[Guest Alarm Guard]

thanks paul,

i'm gonna try polotics next!!

Arfur mo, that was a 2 line reply. Whats going on? It is usually half a screen...

[Guest Alarm Guard]

With respect though he is wrong, shorted plates will blow a fuse so would not normally damage the charging circuit.

Its basic electronics and basic common sense, a dead battery draws more current in most cases more than the charging circuit is designed to deliver. Over time (and lets face it we are talking about batteries that should of been replace years before) this inevitably will damage the charging circuit. If you dont believe me go out side start your car and rev it at 8000 revs for a year or so and see what happens, you will find that if the engine does survive it wont last as long as you would of expected it to if you hadnt done.

I also have been in this industry for over twenty years, and I have seen quite a few panels that are unable to charge batteries due to overloading.

And just out of interest (humour me) what difference do you think it makes if you check the voltage at a detector head or at the panel?

Pete

....and of course Pete, someone who has not had the battery in his alarm panel replaced since the 20th century is not likely to own a meter that has been calibrated... B) .. so testing for voltage is probably going to be futile anyway...

Paul